Clothing and accessories are signs. They represent values and we instantly understand the connotations. We do not have to discuss a crown to understand that power is suggested. Even in the feathered Native American crown below, we understand a sense of regality. But fashion designers, stylists and photographers play with established codes and enrich the story of human expression. The codes then are not fixed but in constant negotiation.
Friday, May 14, 2010
Conclusion
Clothing and accessories are signs. They represent values and we instantly understand the connotations. We do not have to discuss a crown to understand that power is suggested. Even in the feathered Native American crown below, we understand a sense of regality. But fashion designers, stylists and photographers play with established codes and enrich the story of human expression. The codes then are not fixed but in constant negotiation.
Hidden Glamour
Jewish Devotion
Jean Gaultier's 1993 collection was inspired by Orthodox Judaism
Visible Technology
Visible Invisbility
Malcolm Barnard discusses in the third chapter of Fashion as Communication the idea of clothing as a form of protection. This could be for physical protection and comfort and specifically in this essay, protection against the harsh elements of fall and winter. Barnard also mentions the use of thick, dark-coloured and stiff clothing as protection against Moral dangers and clothing offering protection ‘against the general unfriendliness of the world’ or ‘as a reassurance against the lack of love’. In the previous chapter Fashion, Clothing, Communication and Culture, he writes about an argument proposed by Mary Douglas and Baron Isherwood that garments could be used as ‘fences or bridges’, where fences signify a segegration or isolation, a barrier, and bridges signify a bringing together, a connection.
The Satorialist
Visible invisibility is the term coined to describe the situation when one dresses in a way that suggests a form of ‘hiding behind’ and anonymity but instead, draws attention. The connotative ‘hiding behind’ and anonymity ties into the fences, where there is an idea of distancing and differentiating oneself from others. It also suggests the idea of camouflage and blending in to certain extent.
Submission & Coordination in the Dress of Presidential Wives
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Clash of Seasons
Monday, May 10, 2010
Gulf Male Formality
Dr. Wadad Alsuwayeh shows the Sheikh of Kuwait around Kuwait State Monument Design Competition
Influences other than history have developed the Arabian men’s clothing, such as the regional climate, utility, social custom, and cultural needs), achieving a corresponding level of sophistication in the material. All these factors combined led to the simplicity, natural grace and practicality of the everyday garment- the Dishdasha, and the very formal, elegant, intricate detailing on the ceremonial garment- the Bisht.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Evening Formality
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Northern European Alpine
Maria, Sound of Music, opening scene
Elle editorial in Luzerne, Photo: Oskar Falk
Edelweiss product, Madame magazine.
Gala Gonzalez of Am-Lul in a retro Alpine sweater. Man at Saut Hermès, Paris.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Rock Chic
A style that I have, for a long time, people wearing on the street and in editorial is leather jackets, boots, layers of worn-out t-shirts and shirts, hats, converse, skinny jeans, studded belts etc. Clothes that lends the wearer attitude and somehow they fill the air around them with coolness. It is not only young people that you see wearing this style but even the older generation who where young in the 1950’s and 60’s, men as well as women. It is a Style that I find is closely related to Rock music, where this style is commonly seen and worn by artists.
In this essay I will look into where this style was born, who are the big influences, how it has been carried forward and developed and where we can see it today. To explain this style further, we will go back in time, back to the 1950’s where this style started. In 1954 Marlon Brando starred in The Wild One with his crew of motorcycle riders. They were all dressed in black leather jackets, jeans and boots and Marlon Brando became a hero inspiring the young audience.
This image of Marlon Brando as the young biker became the popular image of a classic American rebellion. The image of the biker slowly went from a villain as they were seen as in the 1940’s to becoming a hero for the younger population, carrying values such as rebellion and nonconformity. It was a way for the young to differentiate themselves from the older generation.
Furthermore, this youthful rebel American also became a ground for the musician’s choice of clothes. They expressed themselves not only through their music but their style was equally important for their image and for their opinions to be perceived by the audience.
Debbie Harry
As Josh Sims wrote in his Rock Fashion “Fashion helped rock stars define their rebellion, revolution, teen angst, sex and theatricality, and thus helped define it to their fans.” They created the style they wanted, often vulgar or extreme or reworked from another style. Like The Beatles for example, the started out as greasy rockers all dressed in black leather jackets. When the 1960s came, they cut their hair in mode style haircuts and introduced slim neat suits in to the rock style. As soon as an artist change so does the audience.
The style of rock musicians has changed with the decades and with fashion, style evolves and artists find ways to try to look individual. But I feel there are always elements that remain within the style of rock. Like leather jackets, skinny jeans, boots, shirts etc. Like the clothes that Marlon Brando popularized.
There are a lot of iconic rock musicians that are worth mentioning, like Elvis, Jim Morrison, David Bowie, Bryan Ferry, Freddy Mercury, Lindsey Buckingham, Steve Nicks and modern artist like Liam and Joel Gallagher of Oasis, The Kooks and Nina Persson of The Cardigans are just some examples. However, what I have just described as rock fashion has not fallen away from rock music: it is still closely related to music. The people that I have interviewed for this essay, a lot of them my friends, have all had the same answer to the question if music important for you and the way you dress, all of them said yes. A lot of them said that there were no specific artist that they had held as a style icon, but the ones that did most often said a rock musician from the 1960s or 70s such as Mick Jagger, Debbie Harry, Bowie or some of the contemporary musicians such as John Mayer and Brandon Flowers of The Killers, Pete Dorherty amongst others.
More or less, music tends to group people together. People with the same taste in music seems to group and create somewhat of a subculture, where their world circles around music and you gather at the same clubs or bars to see specific DJs. Values, priorities and visions are shared therefore a common way of dress is normal if not unconsciously obvious in the sense that you think alike.